Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories

Leather bags are unique among men’s accessories. A good one will last a lifetime and, if treated well, look better at the end than the beginning of your life together. Only leather has this attribute, gaining an individual patina from the way it is used and cared for, and a bag provides the largest canvas on which that rich beauty can be displayed.
The quality of leather attachés, holdalls and brief cases varies hugely. But unlike suits, which I discussed in my last post, the quality is on the outside, for everyone to see. You just have to know what you’re looking for.

The three main areas to watch are leather, hardware and stitching.

Good leather is the most tactile area. Pick up a soft example, like a holdall, and feel how supple it is in your hand. Try bending it inwards, towards the centre of the bag, and watch for sharp creases on the surface that show whether there is some kind of coating on the top. A good leather will wrinkle naturally like skin – like the creases on your knuckles.
That’s the prime reason Hermès bags are so expensive: they are 100 per cent hand-sewn. In general, look for slightly longer, tighter stitches that seem to be pulling the leather together. It is most commonly used on handles on other bags (such as Louis Vuitton hard cases) and some traditional attaché cases. “The most beautiful of all is the lid-over case, where you can’t use a wooden frame because of the way the lid has to fit over the base,” says Carol Bellingham, leather buyer at William & Son. “The structure there is created entirely through stitching into a solid piece of leather. Because it doesn’t have a frame it can’t shatter. Someone once dropped one from the top of the Eiffel Tower; that’s how we know.”
In the end, outside large designer brands, price normally reflects much of the quality of a bag. But there are also many bags from reputable companies that look cheap – with shiny, artificial finishes or printed patterns – and plenty of good bags that skimp on the hardware. If you want a bag that will last a lifetime, it’s worth checking for the aforementioned signs of quality. After all, all a man really needs in life is a work bag, a weekend holdall and a suitcase. Invest in all three departments, and you’re set.

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